Food in China

To get an idea of just how much plain rice I've been eating, here is a story about the last time I attempted to order a full meal in China. I pointed to a picture of what appeared to be a bowl of chicken curry. Minutes later a gigantic tray arrived at the table bearing three large bowls. The first bowl was filled to the brim with jiggling congee (mashed rice that is the consistency of yogurt) in an oil base. The second bowl was a stone pot bubbling with chunks of garlic, carrots and an assortment of chicken organs and what appeared to be arteries. The third bowl had a dark broth. Upon further inspection, I discovered two whole chicken feet stuffed down in the bowl. The Chinese love chicken feet. I've seen people gnawing on the pointy, crooked, long toes as they walk down the street. And I'm all for trying local cuisine. But I can bring myself to do this. I just can't. I have been eating plain rice with stewed vegetables almost every meal. And luckily I brought a Costco-sized box of Kashi bars with me, so I won't starve.
A lot of our bad luck with food in China had to do with ignorance. I know plenty of people who eat well here. And if you’re able to hook up with a Chinese speaker, you’ll most likely enjoy some great food.

This was my one attempt at pizza in Tibet: it came coveredin yak cheese and the crust was soft and sponge-like. At least I had a beer to wash it down with.

Tibetan food won’t win any culinary awards, either. Luckily, the backpacker influx in Lhasa has created several good spots that serve more palatable foods, so we did okay. The traditional Tibetan diet consists mainly of Yak meat, Yak butter, Yak cheese and Yak butter tea. Yak butter tea is hard to get down, but farmers here drink as much as 40 cups of it a day! Many nomads and remote villagers never eat vegetables. In Lhasa we found many fruit and veggie stands, and enjoyed a wider variety of Tibetan versions of Chinese, Nepalese and Western dishes. The favorite breakfast in Tibet is called Tsampa, and is basically dough made from Yak butter and barley flour. It’s kneaded in their hands and eaten directly. Despite a diet based solely on fats and protein, Tibetans are pretty darn healthy. Most people here smoke, which is incredible considering the altitude. We see rickshaw drivers pedaling up hills with passengers, cigarettes dangling from their mouths.
Although China and Tibet have been fascinating, I’m looking forward to European food!